España: First port, Cartagena

Catagena, Spain, April 28 — For a city known for centuries for military, mining (lead and silver) and industry, Cartagena is a peach in ‘Europe’s orchard,’ the name given to the agricultural region of Murcia. Carthiginian general Hasbrubal Barca (brother of Hannibal) founded ‘Qart Hadasht’ in the 3rd century BC and immediately set to building ramparts. But in 209 BC, Roman troops under Scipio the African defeated the Carthiginians and took the city, which grew wealthy under Roman rule. The Moors arrived in 825; among their achievements was a vast irrigation network for crops and water in the city. Vandals popped in and out occasionally, as they were wont to do. Four centuries later, in 1243, Ferdinand III of Castille kicked out the Moors, thus giving Castille access to the sea in what our guide called the ‘best natural harbor in the Mediterranean.’

By the 15th century, moral decadence and economic decay had set in, partly due to a downturn in trade, which was going through other Spanish ports to the west. Spanish Bourbons arrived in the 18th century to pick up the pieces.

Twenty-five years ago the port was all cranes and containers, until those were removed and replaced by an expansive plaza, restaurants, museum, boatyard with sailboats and yachts. Today it is an important naval port, with a large naval shipyard, a major cruise ship destination and is working hard to develop culture and tourism. Five hills surround the city, whose greater metropolitan area has a population of 410,000.

An unusual melding of old and new, near the waterfront...

A walk under the 18th-century city wall revealed the first of many works of ‘street art.’

The bullring is being restored and is due to re-open for its original purpose...

The Center for the Interpretation of the Punic Rampart is a modern museum built over the excavated ramparts. Wiki says this was ‘the first defensive wall of Cartagena, built by the Carthaginians... an important site because it is one of the few remains of Carthaginian civilization in Spain, and the walls bear witness to one of the most important events of Ancient history in the Mediterranean Sea: the Second Punic War.’

... not to mention the catacombs.

Casa Fortuna, The House of Fortune, dates from 100 BC to 100 AD. It was unearthed when modern builders were looking to start building something new on top of it. We descended a flight of stairs to access what remains of this extensive aristocratic Roman villa. The image of the entry hall is from the video they show, an animated ‘live action’ representation of the house and everyday life of the people who lived in it. Note the decor — 2,000 years ago.

Most is in ruins, but one ‘family room’ was reconstructed to show how it would have been furnished.

There are some remnants of wall art...

At the end of the 2nd century BC, work started on this Roman Theatre, which lay buried for 2,000 until workers — including our excellent guide, Francisco — excavated the site. It’s the second largest Roman amphitheatre on the Iberian peninsula.

I wonder what an apartment with a view of a Roman Theatre goes for...

While digging to install a new parking lot downtown, workers unearthed an ancient Roman road. Guess there won’t be a parking lot there after all.

Cartagena is a lovely, clean city filled with gorgeous buildings in fine repair...

City Hall...

But not all the buildings in the city have been renovated yet...

The first electric submarine was invented here by Isaac Peral. Launched in 1888, the first ‘U boat’ is on display at the Naval Museum.

The fog rolled in for a couple of hours, adding more atmosphere to this bizarre ‘ghost ship.’ Having built and furnished a luxurious private jet, a Russian oligarch decided he needed an equally opulent sailboat, and this is it. Looks military, but it is not. Unless he’s somehow affiliated with the Kremlin which is, of course, possible...

El Zulo (the hiding place) by the sculptor Victor Ochoa, a tribute to victims of terrorism. This is the country of the ETA separatist/terrorist group.